Archive: Around Town

Review

"Simeon's?", you say. "Why that used to be a great place to eat in ‘the day', but the service and general attention to detail has gone downhill in the last few years. In fact, you might have stopped there for a drink in the delightful, old world atmosphere, but probably continued on down the street to eat at any number of delicious eateries on Aurora Street.

But hold your horses! A change in ownership of Simeon's has made this the place to check out new gastronomic talent. The flavors were reminiscent of Dano's respectful, talented treatment of meat, Renee's international bistro forte, with an attention to detail and playfulness all their own.

 

 

In September of 2007, Simeon's received a sprucing up and a changing of the guard. In place of one absentee owner, we now find 4 qualified, experienced chefs, present and eager to please. Richard Avery and Dean Zervos have a long history of working together, even since their culinary school days at Sullivan C.C. They went their separate ways cheffing in various NYC restaurants. Avery did a lengthy stint at the Hiawatha Golf Course and Zervos as private head chef at a grandiose Florida estate (lifestyles of the rich and famous). With over 40 years of combined experience and this extensive hospitality background, they finally decided to return to Upstate NY., in order to pursue their dream of co-owning a restaurant and be closer to their families in the area.

When they found Simeon's was available, they invited Doug Tingley along as ‘chef de cuisine'. Their diverse culinary repertoire is extended by the soup and dessert creations of Dean's spouse, Jamie (trained at the Culinary.I.A. in Hyde Park), who creates daily whimsical mini-confections in demitasse cups.


Zervos and Avery's philosophy- a top notch dining experience that appeals to a diverse clientele. They try to have fun tasty sandwich and tapas dishes that appeal to the younger crowd, as well as, a variety of fresh, standard dishes and specials to remind our local diners to stop in regularly. The main dishes are changed seasonally and reflect the natural palette of locally grown food, but also include special fish offerings: sea scallops, wild salmon, and sea bass, vegetarian dishes, and a special with an ethnic representation. "You can rely on our presence at the restaurant, attention to detail, timeliness of serving and quality control."

Let us take you on a culinary tour that combines a review feast with two previous less formal visits.

We started with a tapas ‘Tuna tartare'. This is also available on the lunch menu. The ground Sushimi grade tuna presentation was balanced and elegant, completely lacking any fishy scent. The taste as it entered your mouth- sweet and clean. Pairing the tartare was a painted swirl of silken green wasabi cream and a burnt sienna, smokey, Sriracha Thai chili sauce (we wanted a sample of sauce to take home, but did not ask ). A ying and yang of flavors-Refreshing!

 

Following this we tasted the Mediterranean Sampler-a staple on the menu. I had had this before but had not slowed down enough to really pick apart the flavors and textures. Three spreads in a long tray for sampling on generous, crisp, Italian wafers. The first is a classic tomato bruschetta, redolent with fresh basil. Alternating tastes of an eggplant caviar, calm and sweet, blended with a fine ground walnut for substance and body. The last is a most creative zesty spread, butternut squash caponata. The butternut squash is cubed and roasted so as to maintain a firmness to the flesh. Mixed with the squash are red-wine soaked golden raisons, cubes of celery root, nuts and bits of olive. Each element of the caponata is treated separately and combined at the last minute, so that their notes sing independently and true in the quintet. The quantities are generous and it is necessary to go from one spread to the other and back again as each bite sets off the next taste. A bite of finely shaved Trumansburg gouda on the ‘Local cheese plate' is an extra bonus- mellow and rich tasting. Other local cheeses, such as goat , sheep blue, and cheddars are worth trying.

 

Finishing up the tapas taste with ‘The Dip', a classic, gutsy ‘artichoke/spinach dip' and ‘Tai Nachos'- strange but true. I was skeptical of the concept but if you keep your mind open and do not expect a mountain of debris, such as you get with the Mexican version, you will be delightfully surprised. Think of nacho taste with a stuffed clam structure. Each of six chips is piled with a mysterious concoction that has a rich, meaty texture well bedded within a crisp, lacy cheese comforter. Spicy and aromatic, they are addictive.

 

If you have decided to explore the tapas menu like we have, and want to make it to the desserts, you may want to finish your meal with a lighter element, such as an entrée salad topped with chicken, sirloin, or shrimp. While one friend confided in me that they wished the price of the salads were less then the 10.95-12.95$ price, another was impressed by the three extra large shrimp and the wealth of mixed greens that fed two of us and made it home for her next day's lunch as well. Dean states, "Everything is crafted fresh daily and whether you show up for lunch or dinner, you will receive the same top quality, and value. Another light, but luscious dish is the rustic, caramelized onion tart infused with a mellow, Romano richness. I love a good tart! I wished I had the other slices awaiting me at home.

 

On to the entrees that show what these guys can do. The Sea Scallops were handled with consummate skill. It was apparent from the delicate treatment of all the seafood, that Rich and Dean's time in Florida cooking with a wealth of fresh seafood, was time well spent. The scallops arrived draped in a delicate, ginger infused, burre blanc and escorted by bright tendrils of julienne Asian vegetables. While ginger is rarely taking the back seat as a taste, in this dish it was simply a dance partner to a savory, Saki (rice wine) note. Rich commented, ‘the vegetable side is just as important as the main focus'.

The next dish was so delicious, I was compelled to close my eyes so as to be undistracted from the many layered taste. The wild Salmon steak is glazed with white miso and is heavenly. The taste was tangy, sweet, redolent of clean, deep, ocean. My husband said, "It makes me want to dance". Hold on to your seat.

The salmon was followed by their signature ‘Lamb Shank'. We love lamb on a bad day, but this was an impressive display of braising, reductive art. Tender, flavorful, and not in the least muttony, it was served on ‘grandma's mashed potatoes with a side of celeryroot, rutabaga, and parsnips- quite underutilized root vegetables, each with their own contribution to make in balancing the red wine enhanced, robust, lamb flavor- classic french cooking. On to Italy.....

 

The ‘Pork Braciole' was a completely different tack; spicey, densly packed flavors blending in your mouth with each bite. The stuffing is an interesting blend of sausage, golden raisons, and pine nuts escorted by a respectable gnocchi in a marinara sauce. The sauce had depth- fresh, bright, with a spicy high note. As much as it would have been sensible not to finish the gnocchi, I couldn't send a bite back. They took me to the little Tuscan town of Fiesole, high above the valley of Florence. Let me tell you. It was an effort to line up for the next plate, but for you our readers, we did. We were not disappointed.

In spite of the fact we were not hungry any more at all, we could not have been more pleased with the ‘Ale Braised Short Ribs. Rarely is beef an esteemed competitor for a perfectly done lamb, but here the tables were turned. This ‘short rib' was dressed in an incredible, jus-apricot wheat ale reduction and fell off the bone to the touch of your fork. The beef had an intense, marbled richness that could compete with most desserts and would be comfortable in any five-star restaurant. I have never had any better.

 

For those of you with room for dessert and even those of you who don't, there are small desserts available in a half dozen personalities. A group might get all of them to share and pass around or if you are full, you can split one with a friend. What you will find is that once you taste these tidy delightful desserts that there is no effort involved, and hand in hand with an espresso or cognac, anything possible. To entice our readers further Simeon's is offering a complimentary dessert per dining couple in the Month of February. Just say you read the review in the Lansing Star. Simeon's is open 7 days a week with loyal talented enthusiastic staff giving consistent attention and quality. Children are welcome and valued customers, provided they bring their parents along. There is a children's menu priced at $5.95. Lunch options are $6.95-$12.95, Entrees run $14.95-$23.95 and Sunday Brunch 11-3. In addition, there is an extremely well-stocked bar and wine list that is available to all who stop by. See you there!

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