Archive: Around Town

Mahogany GrillReview

Sometimes the best things are the silver lining of a failed intention. Our review of the Mahogany occurred because of just such a fateful event. My husband Matthew and I were returning from a trip to my mother’s house in Connecticut. It was our anniversary and we hoped to find a delicious dinner somewhere at the end of this tiring day. Discussing the options, we finally agreed to return to The Blue Stone Café, because we knew we would find the level of quality that we were looking for (I had also had had a steak craving for a month). We drove downtown to Blue Stone only to find it closed for the day (Ah yes… Monday), what to do now?

There are many good options downtown, quite a few excellent options, but we were too tired to take more than a couple of steps. The Mahogany Grill? The menu looked right for our needs, interesting pasta dishes and beef in various forms, but what about that horrible dining experience we had had there 3 years ago?.. Matthew had eaten some decent business lunches there since that time, proximity won the argument- in we went. From the first moment we entered The Mahogany Grill, it was a premier dining experience.

The atmosphere is elegantly casual. You feel as comfortable coming in off the street in shorts as you would in evening attire. The clientele is varied: students out with friends, family groups, business meetings, and couples in search of a warm intimate space. The pressed tin ceiling is very period and balances the dark aged wood wrapping the bar and restaurant areas, lights are well spaced (not intrusive), photos on the walls speak of Ithaca’s past, and the bar is well appointed including a truly sculptural, historic tap. The Mahogany Grill’s vibe is warm, nurturing, and very conducive to relaxed communication.

The meal we had that night was exceptional. First the fresh tasting, crusty bread right out of the oven served with a whipped honey butter, salad tossed with a variety of greens and arrayed with delicate loops of red onion and other veggie morsels, topped with home-made balsamic vinaigrette. Then shared entrees of spinach lasagna (a special) stuffed with spinach in an outrageous vodka sauce and their standard Bourbon Black Angus Sirloin topped with a bourbon bordelaise and onion straws on a bed of bacon, cheddar mashed potatoes. Wow!... No dessert was possible that night. Just finishing the generous servings was an effort. In addition to the fine fare, the service was tip top. Our waiter was efficient, polite, bright and personable. We decided right then to return soon to the Mahogany Grill for a formal review, so that we might share the whole experience with our Lansing Star readers.

We returned two weeks later determined to investigate a full ‘Mahogany’ experience, thus we seated ourselves at the wood burl finish bar. The bar is A+: comfortable stools, heavy wide bar with an array of excellent liquors displayed opposite. The television is present but discreetly placed to the right so as not to dominate the environment. Others at the bar engaged in light conversation and it was without effort that we were drawn into discussion of the merits of Pluto as an accredited planet. Christopher, our bartender was charming and highly competent drink maker. Bartending is recreation for this maritime archaeologist. He advised us on the martini options (at least a dozen) and we opted to try his recommendations of a ‘Drunken Hemingway’, a delicious pina colada-like martini, and a ‘Blue Martini’, crystal blue with a citrus fruit zing. I still don’t know how the vanilla in the Hemingway translated as coconut milk, but it did.

A fellow next to us at the bar introduced himself as Mark Balling, a construction consultant with Bovis Lend-lease. He said that every time he checks on work at Cornell he comes down for a meal at the Mahogany Grill. Mark has been eating here once a month for the last 3 years. When asked why the devotion, he stated simply, “I know I can count on them. It’s a nice way to wind down and have a good meal.” We could have visited with these nice people much longer, but we had some serious tasting to do.

Starters run from a cup of soup at $2.50, through various Apps. $7.95-8.95 to the $12.95 shrimp and lobster martini glass cocktail. We tasted a variety of appetizers. The lump crab cake served with a remoulade sauce was redolent of Maryland Blues. There was incredible smoked trout served with capers, red onion, and a creamy horseradish sauce. The flesh hinted of apple smoke and was moist and tender. The baked brie is usually walnut crusted but due to my nut allergies it came undressed, still good however, served with zippy granny smith slices and red grapes. And last, a perfectly fried breaded calamari (no rubber) dressed with a very fresh marinara sauce. I heartily recommend asking for a sampler plate if they are not too busy. The combination of flavors was perfect together.

The salad course can be a side, or a specialty meal in and of itself ($7.95-10.95) with the addition of sirloin, grilled Ahi tuna, three options of chicken, or a traditional Caesar or Cobb. We tried all six of their dressings. Of these balsamic, garlic-dill, blue cheese, Caesar, and honey mustard are home-made. Our favorite (and many regulars’ as well) was the garlic-dill. It made you want to dip your bread when the salad was gone. The blue cheese was also tip-top, fresh and tangy. All were very good.

Dinner sandwiches run from a standard $7.95- 10.95. We passed these up to try the entrees, but I would count on any beef they offered and the tuna is worth running ten miles for as an entrée or a sandwich.

Dinner entrees are typically seafood, beef, and pasta dishes from $16.95 up. There is one chicken breast on the menu dressed lightly in grilled vegetables and feta. We tried the Mahogany’s signature dish ‘Filet medallions Oscar’. It was my husband’s favorite. This is not for the delicate eater. It could win top honors in France for the rich concoction of lobster claw meat and asparagus in a béarnaise sauce drizzled on top of tender medallions of filet beef laid securely on a bed of bacon, cheddar mashed potato. When you make it to the end of this dish you feel as if you had dinner and dessert too.

Co-owner, Matt Torchia

The ‘Sautéed Garlic Shrimp’ was super! Frankly, I had stopped ordering shrimp out long ago because the texture and taste seemed to be declining. These shrimp were large and exceptionally firm, perfectly cooked. Their taste brought me right back to my grandmother’s house in Florida where I first learned to love them. The shrimp are sautéed in white wine and olive oil, with artichoke hearts, basil, tomatoes, and served over linguini. The ‘Lobster ravioli’ was decadent topped with sautéed mushrooms in a cream sauce. Truly my overall favorite for perfect taste and a light touch was the ‘Escalar White Tuna Steak’ marinated in a citrus teriyaki, seared briefly, topped with cucumber salsa, and served with wild rice and vegetable. It would have contented both those who like tuna raw and those who do not. It truly melted in your mouth. Hats off to the chef!

Dessert… Well to be honest, we couldn’t. So we took some home for breakfast. Chocolate is best in the morning with your coffee, and the chocolate torte didn’t disappoint. I had help in describing it: “creamy, light, truffle-like”, “smooth, velvety, and not cloyingly sweet”. The key lime pie reminded me of a trip long ago to the Keys, the citrus note keen and compelling through the creamy custard base. I typically do not like graham crackers, but there was no fault with this crust. It was a good companion. The carrot cake was quite good as well. I do prefer carrot cakes that have a very light whipped icing rather than a heavy cheesy one. A nutmeg fragrance was noticeable.

I asked a few questions about the kitchen. Patrick Johnson is the self taught head chef of the Mahogany. In my travels I have rarely come upon a chef that had such control over the timing of both his beef and his seafood. It borders on magical. The kitchen is small. While this may annoy the staff, it is a boon for the customer because it means that they need to get frequent deliveries and the food is fresher than it might be if they had the convenience of miles of refrigerators.

The owners of The Mahogany Grill are Matt Torchia and Frank Rogan. Frank Rogan we know of from Rogan’s Pizza. Matt Torchia is active manager of the Mahogany and has been in some aspect of the restaurant business since he graduated from college many years ago. Like many college students, Matt worked his way up from the bottom rung of dishwashing to waiting tables, bartender, sous-chef, and management. Following his restaurant interest he pursued a degree in Hospitality from the Hotel school at University of Florida. This lifelong process has allowed Matt to understand the business inside and out, and the effect as a manager in this, his first restaurant, is apparent. Matt expects from his staff the same level of professionalism that he expects of himself. As I talked with Matt it is was easy to see that the inviting environment was a natural extension of his personality. Come see for yourself.

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