- By Katrina Binkewicz
- Around Town
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This review takes us to the Elm Tree Inn in the little hamlet of McLean. Most of us have passed through McLean at one time or another on our way to Route 81, or to Cortland for shopping; some of you may have stopped at the quilting store that was next door to the Inn. There may even be a few of you that remember the checkered past of the Inn- we will leave that in the past were it belongs. The Elm Tree Inn is a ‘peach’ of an eatery, and has a fine place in the present for those of you in search of good food at a great value for the whole family.
The Elm Tree Inn stands at the crossroads of four country roads. It was built in early 1800’s and was a classic stopping place for travelers and locals alike. In those days the Inn was flanked by stately elms, many of which died during the elm tree blight of the 1940’s and 1950’s. There remains today a single lovely elm tree arching over the parking area in the front of the Inn lending the space a coolness and refined eloquence of days gone by.
Currently the Inn is owned and operated by a husband and wife team- Chuck and Nancy Senecal Peacock. Nancy grew up in the Groton area and Chuck in the Cortland/Homer area. They left the area for 18 years and returned in 2000 determined to be close to their family and eventually created a business together. I asked them what their personal philosophy was and they replied,”We wanted to bring this historic structure back to its original charm and ambience, that of a friendly neighborhood restaurant, tavern, and gathering place. ”The building had run down terribly and the Peacocks’ had to remodel the downstairs and rebuild the upstairs that had been damaged by a fire in the 1970’s.
Facing the building you have the choice of two entrances: The dining area to the left and the entrance to the bar on the right. The doors are framed by a comfortable porch sitting area and seasonal decorations that have a welcoming feel to them. Although the dining room is quite large and used frequently for special catered events, it is decorated and arranged to feel comfortable for smaller dinner parties as well. Upstairs the Peacock’s created a two-bedroom apartment where they live, and a 100 seat banquet room for special events.
The tavern area is clean and cheerfully lit. There is a small TV discreetly to the side of the bar where patrons can keep track of the latest football game, but the low volume shows that the focus here is on friendly conversation and camaraderie. A few small tables are scattered about near the bar and in a smaller pool table room. What was noticeable to me is that anyone would feel comfortable stopping in here for a drink. You did not have to be a regular to feel welcomed and safe. Chuck can be found here cheerfully greeting an old friend, or making a new one.
Nancy is the chef for the enterprise. She is indefatigable and thrives on multitasking. Her culinary background is self-taught. While living in Charleston, she ran a personal chef service and catering business out of their home. Nancy loves to cook and loves experimenting with different foods as on notices from the variety of offerings on their menu: seafood, beef, and pork, chicken, and pasta dishes. I asked Nancy to characterize their food. She stated. ” Good, tasty, ‘American’ comfort food! We are definitely not a fast food restaurant.” Everything is cooked to order, but if you are in a hurry-just call ahead, and they will have your meal ready when you arrive. The Elm Tree Inn is definitely a family restaurant for all occasions. You can bring the pickiest eaters with you, and they will find something to make them happy. All entreés come with home-made soup and the salad bar- an excellent value!
The menu has a full array of appetizers priced in the $4.50-6.00 range, or an appetizer sampler for $12.95. The gigantic sampler includes seasoned potato wedges and mozzarella sticks, batter fried mushrooms, and chicken tenders with a variety of dipping sauces: marinara, blue cheese, and honey mustard. I was very impressed with the chicken tenders. This is usually an item that I avoid at all costs since it is usually, greasy, tasteless and over-cooked in most restaurants. These tenders were truly tender, large, flavorful, breast pieces cooked to absolute perfection. The honey-mustard dipping sauce was also quite notable. The wings were good-sized and not greasy.
Soup is either soup of the day, or a New England clam chowder, both home-made. I had a cream of broccoli soup that was served piping hot from the salad bar. The base was a light chicken broth, blended with broccoli, herbs, and light cream. The soup was flavorful with out being overly thick and glutinous, as is the case when restaurants add too much flour. The clam chowder was also respectable and fresh tasting.
The salad bar had a nice mix of iceberg and greens, fresh cut vegetables and three or four specialty salads: pasta, pickled, bean, and potato. The croutons were large, flavorful and crisp (just like my dad liked them). The Inn serves light, crusty, warm rolls with an herbed butter. In addition to the salad bar offerings, there are several other salads on the menu: a Caesar salad that is delicious, that you can add grilled or fried chicken breast to, and a Chef’s House salad that I have not tried.
Tavern sandwiches run from $5.50-7.50 and include: a Reuben, cheeseburger, roast pork sub, hot sausage sub, and a grilled or fried chicken breast on a roll. The burger was very good and the regular fries are an excellent side- crisp and flavorful every time.
Entrees range in price from the $11.50 spaghetti or ravioli to the $18.95 Seafood Fantasy- fried shrimp, haddock, and sautéed scallops with baked potato and vegetable. The batter dipped, deep-fried haddock was excellent and even rated well as a leftover the next day. It came with an A+ tartar sauce that might be the best I’ve had out yet. The roast loin of pork with applesauce, roasted potatoes, and vegetable was very generous and a reliable fall-back. The daily vegetable is often a tell-tale measurement of chef ability. The mixed summer squash with herbs passed the test- flavorful and not overcooked. They serve an 8oz. rib eye and a 10oz. New York strip steak. Timing was perfect on my steak and the flavor was what one hopes for.
The Inn serves a variety of desserts, mostly homemade. Standard offerings include: a variety of cheesecakes, Mary Ann’s brownie sundae, vanilla ice cream with Crème de Menthe, and a scrumptious Snickers pie. I had to try a piece of peach pie, and although I was stuffed at that point, it was good enough that I couldn’t leave a bite behind.
Restaurant hours are Wed.-Saturday, serving lunch from 11:30am-2:00pm and Dinner from 5:00-9:00pm. The tavern is open Wed.-Sunday from 11:30 until closing. Closed Monday and Tuesdays, but will open for groups if necessary and to cater special occasions. Open all Holidays except Christmas with All-You-Can Eat Buffets geared toward families. From their family to yours, “Welcome! Come stop in.”
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