- By Henry Stark
- Around Town
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At the conclusion of my last column, about red grapes and red wine, I mentioned that this week I would discuss white grapes and white wine. It’s worth repeating that different countries have different methods of naming wines. When we refer to Vouvray and Chablis, for example, we’re referring to specific regions in France, not types of grapes. Vouvray is a village on the Loire River. Wines made in that village are named Vouvray, are always white, and are made exclusively from Chenin Blanc grapes. Chablis is a region in the northern area of Burgundy and wines from Chablis are also always white and are made exclusively from Chardonnay grapes. In the United States, wines are named for the grapes themselves, like Riesling and Chardonnay, which are the two most prevalent white grapes grown in the Finger Lakes region.
Riesling is well known in the Alsace region of France, Germany, Austria, and Australia. In fact, about 80% of German vineyards are devoted to this one grape. In the Finger Lakes, Riesling is finished in various degrees of sweetness. Dry Riesling has the least amount of residual sugar. Semi-dry Riesling is, to my taste, on the sweet side. This grape usually has a racy acidity with hints of floral and lime flavors but can also be finished with a flower scent and the texture of a delicate nectar.
Chardonnay is predominant in the Burgundy region of France but has been planted all over the world. In France, it’s one of the primary grapes grown in Chablis, Montrachet, Meursault, and Pouilly-Fuissé. It’s also prominent in coastal California, parts of Australia, New Zealand, Italy, and Spain. When it comes from Chablis, it’s usually crisp with hints of minerals. From other areas, it can seem creamy, rounded, and with peach flavors. It ages well in both oak and stainless steel.
Sauvignon Blanc reminds some tasters of gooseberry and cut grass. It’s popular in the Loire Valley of France and is the most important white grape in Bordeaux where it’s often blended with Sémillon which gives the wine some density. These days, the Sauvignon Blanc wine coming out of New Zealand is fabulous. When I eat raw oysters, I won’t compromise on my accompanying wine: It must be a crisp, dry Sauvignon Blanc.
Having lived in the Loire Valley of France for a while, I’ve developed a preference for wine made with Chenin Blanc grapes. They’re grown in the Anjou and Touraine regions of the river on chalky soils and always features a high acid content which helps it to age well. I’ve never met a wine from Vouvray that I haven’t enjoyed.
I think it’s interesting how few grape varieties we’ve heard of compared to how many are grown in the world. For example: when was the last time you’ve enjoyed a wine made with the juice of white grapes named Muller-Thurgau or Palomino (Listan) or Welschriesling, or Kerner or Folle Blanche?
Most experts will tell you not to drink white wines immediately after you’ve tasted reds. The density and intensity of the reds can overwhelm the lighter whites. However there are some hearty whites as well, for example a sweet Sauterne is often a perfect accompaniment to a dessert. And don’t be fooled by fast talkers who proclaim that fish and poultry should always be accompanied by white wines. Actually, if the fish or poultry are served in a hearty sauce, a red wine probably will complement it better. Personally, I prefer red wine with chicken thighs and legs.
And I don’t give a hoot how so-called experts rate wine. Our palates are unique. Bottom line: We should drink what we like and when we like. It’s fun to experiment and make decisions for ourselves.
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